Once you make cream of mushroom soup from scratch, the canned kind will never taste the same. Browning the mushrooms in batches builds a deep, savory flavor, while shallots, thyme and a splash of sherry make the soup taste elegant enough for a dinner party.
The secret is browning
Mushrooms are full of water. If you crowd the pot, they steam and turn gray and rubbery. Cooking them in two batches over medium-high heat, and leaving them alone for the first few minutes, lets them brown. Those golden edges are where the flavor comes from.
Which mushrooms to use
Cremini, also called baby bella, have more flavor than white button mushrooms and are easy to find. For a wild mushroom soup, mix in shiitake, oyster or a handful of dried porcini soaked in hot water. Add the strained soaking liquid to the broth for an intense earthy taste.
Deglazing with sherry
A quarter cup of dry sherry dissolves the browned bits on the bottom of the pot and adds a warm, nutty note. White wine works too. If you avoid alcohol, use a tablespoon of lemon juice and a little extra broth.
A splash of soy sauce
A teaspoon of soy sauce adds savory depth, called umami, that makes the mushrooms taste meatier. It does not make the soup taste Asian.
Smooth or chunky
Blending most of the soup and saving some sliced mushrooms gives the best of both: a velvety base with tender pieces to bite into. For a completely smooth soup, blend everything.
Use it in casseroles
Homemade cream of mushroom works in any recipe that calls for the canned condensed soup. Simmer a portion until it is thick, about half its original volume, and use the same amount the recipe asks for. Green bean casserole will never be the same.
Make it vegan
Use olive oil, vegetable broth and a cup of cashew cream or unsweetened coconut cream. The browned mushrooms carry the flavor.
Serving ideas
Serve with toasted sourdough, a simple arugula salad or a cheese board. For more cozy bowls, try the French onion soup or our potato leek soup.
Storing and freezing
Refrigerate for up to 4 days. Freeze without the cream for up to 3 months and add the cream when reheating.
How to slice mushrooms quickly
Trim the dry ends of the stems, place the caps flat side down and slice with a sharp knife. An egg slicer also cuts white and cremini mushrooms into even slices in seconds. Even slices brown at the same speed.
Build more flavor
A spoonful of tomato paste cooked with the shallots, a pinch of nutmeg or a few drops of balsamic vinegar at the end all deepen the taste. Fresh tarragon is a classic French partner for mushrooms and cream.
Turn it into a pasta sauce
Simmer a cup of leftover soup until thick, toss with cooked egg noodles or fettuccine and add grated Parmesan. It is a quick mushroom stroganoff without the beef.
Wine pairing
An earthy mushroom soup goes well with a glass of Pinot Noir or a lightly oaked Chardonnay. For a non-alcoholic option, try sparkling apple cider, whose tartness cuts through the cream.
Frequently asked questions
Should I wash mushrooms?
A quick rinse right before cooking is fine. Do not soak them, and dry them well so they brown.
Can I use milk instead of cream?
Yes, whole milk works. The soup will be lighter; warm it gently so the milk does not curdle.
How do I thicken mushroom soup?
Simmer it uncovered for a few more minutes or stir in a cornstarch slurry.
